Gaja's Ca'Marcanda Winery

Ca'Marcanda Winery in Bolgheri

Gaja Winery is regarded as one of the finest wine estates in Italy. Founded in Piedmont in 1859, the winery's legacy is now being shaped by the fifth generation: Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni Gaja. I recently sat down with Giovanni to learn more about Gaja’s wine empire.

Gaja’s original property in the Barbaresco area of Piedmont, was joined by Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino in 1994, Ca’Marcanda in the Bolgheri in 1996 and IDDA in Sicily in 2016.

With the 30th anniversary of Ca’Marcanda next year, Giovanni and I talked over a library tasting of Ca’Marcanda 2022, 2021, 2016 and 2007. The wines are a perfect metaphor for Gaja’s evolution in Bolgheri.

When the family founded Ca’Marcanda they were the 11th producer in Bolgheri. Today, there are 65.

Ca’Marcanda was a pioneer in the region, bringing a lighter, elegant, acid-driven style to the Bordeaux blends of Bolgheri.

While the family’s roots are firmly in Piedmont, Giovanni tells me that Ca’Marcanda is “my dad’s favorite child because he created it from scratch.”

His dad, Angelo, originally focused on Merlot-based blends, represented by the 2007 Camarcanda we tasted. The Camarcanda represents the best of the best and is only produced when the vintage dictates it. The 2007 is like a good book, it’s rich with layered storytelling and bursts of bright berry characters and ends with a satisfying conclusion that lingers long after the last page.

Unlike many areas of Italy, in Bolgheri the rules allow winemakers to playfully explore, pivot and invent. The family realized that Merlot was more challenging to grow because of the hot climate and turned their focus to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc driven blends.

The 2016 and 2021 CaMarcanda are both Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blends. The 2021 is intense, vibrant and balanced with great structure and strong flavors of black and red fruit. The 2016 easily reminds me of being in a forest with its earthy tones exploding into a field of wild berries and a savory finish. Both vintages have excellent aging potential. For 2021, if you’re impatient and want to drink it immediately, it will benefit from decanting.

The Ca’Marcanda Magari is the winery’s flagship wine, and we tried the 2022. This wine is driven by Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. It expresses itself with red fruit, mocha, and smoke. It’s brimming with energy and vibrancy.

“Cabernet Franc is really a rising star in this area,” said Giovanni. “Unlike in other regions, it always reaches ripeness here.”

If the Tuscan coast wasn’t enough to draw you to visit Italy, the chance to try these remarkable wines in Bolgheri should be.